The Heather to the Hawkesbury Read online

  The Heather

  to

  The Hawkesbury

  by

  Sheila Hunter

  Winner of 1999

  NSW Premiers Senior Citizen of the Year Award

  Dedication

  To our family -

  who come before and prepared the way for us today!

  and to my children -

  who have yet to travel the path that was made for them!

  Let us learn from each other.

  Sheila Hunter

  1924-2002

  “That future generations might know and those yet unborn: that they in turn might teach it to their children; So that they might put their confidence in God: and not forget His works but keep His commandments.

  Psalm 78 v 6 , 7 NRSV the Bible.

  Printed by CreateSpace, An Amazon company

  CreateSpace, Charleston SC.

  Available from Amazon.com and other retail outlets

  Available on Kindle.

  1st Edition Printed 2016

  ISBN-13: 978-1503251434

  ISBN-10: 1503251438

  BISAC: Fiction / Historical / General

  Cover Painting is

  Joseph Lycett (engraver)

  English c.1775–1828, worked in Australia 1814–22

  View of Windsor, Upon the River Hawkesbury, New South Wales 1824

  plate no. 15 inViews in Australiapublished by J. Souter, London.

  Hand-coloured aquatint 23.5 x 33.0 cm. State Library of Victoria, Melbourne (30328102131561/16)

  Cover Photo insert, (edited) is both Of and Owned by,

  Deb Cox and family.

  Taken at Old Sydney Town, Somersby, NSW in 1980’s

  Editors Note:

  The background to this story is gleaned from the authors own family history. Her Ancestors came from the Isle of Skye during the Highland Clearances and Potato Famine and were themselves Macdonald’s who arrived in Melbourne Victoria on one of the Highland and Island Emigrations Society Ships..

  Sheila’s Macdonalds did not come to NSW nor were they farmers, they went to the Victorian goldfields and became storekeepers and undertakers. Her husband’s family were also “Bounty Immigrants” as they were called and came from various parts of Scotland and Ireland. The McLeans came from the Isle of Mull, the Gibson’s from Northern Ireland, but there were other families and they had very similar backgrounds to the characters in the story except most of them were totally illiterate to written English at least! They spoke nothing but Gaelic and had little or no manners of any known sort, let alone personal hygiene! They would use the same containers for both cooking and for ‘bodily functions’ during the nights! They never washed either themselves or their clothing. They must have been very unpleasant to be around and yet it was these same people who settled the Northern areas of New South Wales and felled the trees, started the dairies and farmed the fertile flood plains around all the northern rivers.

  This story follows a different class, a middle class of immigrants, educated and clean, far different from the majority of Highland settlers, but all had the same Highland Tenacity!

  Thanks to Joan Harvey and Suzi Powter for help with proofreading and to Ellie Rugg (née Powter) who let me sit and transcribe the manuscript on the day of her wedding and last but certainly not least, to my wonderful husband Stephen who has supported me in this project.

  Sara Powter

  Names and Ages on Scottish Families

  on Departure from Skye.

  Murdoch (42) & Mary Macdonald (41)

  5 children: Malcolm(14), Duncan (12), Catherine(10), Mary Ann(5) & John (4)

  Alec(38) & Margaret (Meg)(38) Fraser

  (Mary’s friend Meg was Murdoch’s cousin)

  6 children: Ian(14), Jennet, (12), Elizabeth(Effie)(10), Jamie(8), Kate(6) & Eliza(4)

  Caroline (Caro) (33) & Alistair MacLeod (42)

  ( Murdoch Macdonald’s Sister)

  3 children; Donald(16), Ann (10), Jane (8)

  Elspeth (35) & Fergus (40) MacKenzie

  ( Mary Macdonald’s brother)

  4 children: Hamish (14), Sara (12), Alison(10), & Susanna (6)

  (see end for further Family Trees)

  Table of Contents

  Musing - Prologue

  Chapter 1 - Hope and Plans

  Chapter 2 - Preparation

  Chapter 3 - Setting Out

  Chapter 4 - Embarkation

  Chapter 5 - At Sea

  Chapter 6 - Life On Board

  Chapter 7 - Heat and Cabin Fever

  Chapter 8 - Sickness and a storm

  Chapter 9 - First Sights

  Chapter 10 - Settling in

  Chapter 11 - The First Christmas

  Chapter 12 - Learning so many new things

  Chapter 13 - Alec

  Chapter 14 - Rearranging life

  Chapter 15 - Snakes!

  Chapter 16 - The Store

  Chapter 17 - Felling Timber

  Chapter 18 - Murdoch helps again

  Chapter 19 - Ballarat, Victoria

  Chapter 20 - Homecoming

  Chapter 21 - Alec’s new life

  Chapter 22 - The New Generation

  Chapter 23 - A New Style of Farming

  Chapter 24 - Changing Views

  Chapter 25 - The New Farm

  Chapter 26 - Epilogue 1

  Chapter 27 - Epilogue 2

  Sheila Hunter Bio.

  Musing - Prologue

  “I think Australia is going to the dogs and if we don’t watch out there’ll be no Australia to live in.”

  “Bill, give it a go! Every generation has said that the next is worse than the last.”

  I sat listening to my two brothers and it made me think about our country. I wonder what our forbears thought of this place when they came here. I imagine that the men would have taken it better than the women. I don’t know, though ... when I think of old Aunt Jane and what a tough old girl she is. Eighty seven and her mind is still very sharp. I should really write a lot of her stories down before she goes and before I forget. I really must do it.

  “Sally, wake up, there’s something boiling over on the stove.”

  I roused myself and hurried to the kitchen.

  “Bill, I’ve just thought up a new project for myself.”

  “Not another one, dear,” laughed Bill, “what is it this time?”

  “Well, you and Chris started it, when you were talking about what this generation is doing to the land, building on the farm land and fracking underground and poisoning the water, and just look next door to see all that dust from the quarry killing our trees.”

  “What are you going to do? Start a new political party?”

  “No, Bill, I am not! I’m going to write a book and tell the people what went into making this wonderful land of ours. You know our young are pitifully ignorant of what our ancestors did. Our own people came here over a hundred years ago and I’ll bet there is a story or two in their doings. I must ask Aunt Jane if I can go through all that stuff in her old cedar chest”

  “Go to it, girl, you may as well give it a try.”

  “Right - good for the Macdonalds!”

  Chapter 1 - Hope and Plans

  Isle of Skye, Scotland

  Murdoch quickly looked out from his dry shelter, braced himself and went into the cold rain. He leaned into the wind and carefully picked his way down the road in the dark. It was very cold, but he smiled to himself and lightened his step as he went.

  In a deep corner of his heart there lurked a doubt. “Well” he muttered to himself, “the decision is made, we cannot turn back now.”

  Mary looked at the wet figure as he stood dripping just inside the door.

  “T
he word has come, my Mary, we are on our way.”

  In the dim light of the cottage Murdoch Macdonald saw his wife stiffen and pale. She sat down quickly, took a breath and smiled bravely at the man, seeing suppressed excitement in his eyes.

  “Tell me about it!” was all she said.

  “The Laird received the papers today and The Society has booked passages for the four families. We all go together. Praise the Lord! You will be fortunate in having your brother and my sister with us, love, and the Frasers, too. Many have had to travel with strangers, but we will be a family party.”

  “How long have we, Murdoch? Where do we go?”

  “Wait, Lass, until I get my wet things off and we’ll warm by the fire and I’ll tell you.”

  During his brief absence in their sleeping quarters Mary was able to still her churning thoughts and was sitting waiting by the fire when he returned.

  He placed some papers in her hands and said, “These tell us that we leave on June 11th by steamer to Liverpool and there we stay in the Government depot until the ship, the “Mistress Azure”, sails to take us to Australia. So we have two months to prepare for it. The Laird has told me what to do and how to pack our things. Lady Macdonald, too said she would like to talk to you four lassies so she can help you plan the packing and what clothes you are to take. We must take some food with us on the voyage and things for cooking and eating. Life will be hard for some months, lass, but I’m sure it will be worth it in the end.”

  “Oh, Murdoch, it is all so strange Murd - it’s so far away. We won’t know how to manage”

  “Yes, we will Lass, the Laird will help us four men to plan and Lady Macdonald will help you mothers to decide about our families. Aye, but it is grand to think about.”

  Mary studied the faraway-look on his rugged face. She was faint of heart. It was almost unthinkable, this life of the future. The Colonies - strange, hot, barbarous places they seemed. How could she face leaving this green land she knew so well. Deep down she knew that it was inevitable, the plans were made, but there was always a little hope that something would stop them from leaving. She realised that Murdoch was looking at her. He leaned over and took her hand.

  “Mary, my darling, don’t look like that. I’ll be with you all the time, I’ll not leave you. We must look beyond our own desires. There is nothing now here for us in our Islands. Since the Clearances there is nothing for a farmer in Skye. Our boys Malcolm, Duncan and John what of them? and Fergus, Alistair’s and Alec’s children, and our two fine lassies Catherine and wee Maryann? We must make a new life for them. We’ll work hard and soon have farms of our own. It is possible in the new lands, but not here in Scotland, not here on Skye. If I have to cross the world to set you up I will do it, but I’ll need you by me Mary. I cannot do anything without you. I’ll look after you, I promise, and I will build you such a grand house, one with stairs, and we will call it ‘Duntulm’ after the old castle, only this one will be our new castle.”

  Did ever a woman have such a man? How could you resist such an appeal? Mary kissed him sweetly and said, “Come, my adventurer, come and have your supper, and you shall tell me more as you eat it.”

  ***********************

  Up at the big house.

  The Laird sat in his big leather chair, staring at the bright flames, one hand idly fondling the satin ear of his favourite hound, beside him. He turned as the door opened and smiled as his wife, a tall dark Highland woman like so many of her Scottish sisters.

  “Well, how did you get on, Colin?” she asked, sitting in the opposite chair stretching her feet to the warmth.

  The Laird sighed. “Murdoch has just left with the papers, dear. I am sure they will be a good group. In a way, I am sorry to lose them, or at least sorry the Macdonalds and the MacLeods are going but Fergus MacKenzie is a bit of a risk. I daresay I should not have sponsored him as he is so ill and Alec Fraser is a positive risk., but I’ll be happy because Skye is well rid of him.”

  “Should you do so, then? The Highland and Island Society would not thank you for sending anyone who has a dubious character.”

  “I’ve considered it well, my dear, and Murdoch Macdonald and Alistair MacLeod guarantee they will keep him in line. I sponsored Fergus because he is a good man, he is Mary Macdonald’s brother, and Murdoch feels assured that the voyage to the Antipodes will cure his chest complaint. I hope so.”

  “You’ll be sorry to see Alistair go, won’t you?” asked Lady Macdonald.

  “Yes, it is a sad thing that we lose such men as Alistair, but there is no place for him here. The education his father gave his children is wasted here. I would say that Alistair could have done very well academically, but what chance has he? He was born in the wrong class. It will be interesting to see how he makes out in New South Wales.”

  “Well, I couldn’t imagine that he would find much use for his book learning, there will be surely little opportunity, except for teaching his own children. What does he intend doing, Colin?”

  “They all intend farming. Perhaps not Fergus, if he ever does reach Australia. I think he will end up being a clerk or something. Alistair tells me that he has quite an aptitude for reckoning. It may be useful to him. He also tells me that Alec Fraser is hopeless but that Alec’s wife Margaret is almost as quick as Fergus MacKenzie. She is a good lass, maybe she will help keep Alec straight.”

  “Do you think our people will find a better life in the colonies? It all seems so far away and strange.”

  The Laird looked over to his wife and smiled, thinking of the difference between her life and that of the destitute farmers on his estates. He said, “I have often wondered what I am doing sending these people to such an unknown place as Australia, Fiona, but what have they here? Very little prospect of seeing their families grow up healthy and useful. Think of Alistair and his family trying to fit into the cottage with his parents and others, too. Murdoch is all right as he hasn’t had to share with his family, so far, but he would if he stayed. He would have to share with his brother when he marries. There is no other place for him. And there is no work for the young ones. Fergus is still home with his family and what a squeeze that must be. Alec Fraser is a problem to all but for Margarets’ sake several relatives have taken them for a spell. At least, Fiona, they have a chance of getting work in Australia and often a cottage goes with the job on a farm. The life will be very healthy and I believe farm workers can get jobs easily now that gold fever has taken the land. Apparently a great number of shepherds and farmers have gone to the gold fields. I don’t suppose I blame them but I am thankful that the Highland and Island Immigration Society tries to tie them down with a promise-to keep away from the ‘diggings’ as they call the gold fields.”

  “We wish them well, Colin. After all we have heard that the McCuan’s are settled well there, so I daresay it can be done.”

  ********************

  The sun burst through the door as Mary opened it. She pulled her shawl around her as she stepped out into the sparkling crisp morning. What a glorious spring day!

  “Dear Lord,” she said, looking up to the sky above, “Why do you give us such a beautiful day? Why can’t it still be raining? I want the sky to cry, just as I’m crying inside me.”

  Standing on a rise she looked across the green sodden fields to the scattered houses on the slopes to the sea. A rare day indeed and the memory of it to remain with her all her life. Turning she looked at the misty purple Cuillins[1] in the distance. Taking a deep breath of the pure cold air, she turned again to find her husband and eldest son Malcolm standing at the door.

  “Ay, it is a grand sight, love, one that we’ll carry with us when we go. Come, we’ll tell the children of our plans. Malcolm has been telling the young ones that we’re off on our adventures and l’m sure that think that we are going today.”

  As Mary passed him he gave her a quick squeeze and a big smile. Malcolm plying them with questions as they prepared their oatmeal.

  “Now Mary, I think
it would be good if you, Caroline, Elspeth and Margaret could see Lady Macdonald quickly and you plan our packing and we men will speak to the Laird about transport, money and the rest.”

  The potato famine of 1836-7 was bad in Ireland and just as devastating in the Western Isles of Scotland. Then a second which began in 1847, caused even more heartbreak for the people, as the population of the places like Skye had increased to more than the area could hold. There were 26,000 in Skye alone and so many people were starving that the government sent in shiploads of oatmeal and potatoes to the affected areas to help their plight. The idea of immigration then was accepted as one of the unpleasant necessities, and it was at this time that the Highland and Island Immigration Society was formed by the Clan Chiefs.

  As well, there was much pressure for the people to leave their homeland, for many of the clan chiefs, the Lairds, had to sell land, mostly to southerners who wished to run sheep on their new land and fence the farmlands, and as a consequence wished to clear the land of unwanted tenant farmers.

  Many tragic stories of the way these carried ‘clearances’ were out were fresh in the minds of the Macdonalds. People who had been lifelong neighbours had been forced to go on the road to find shelter and a new life of sorts, for their old, their young and themselves.

  Murdoch and his brothers-in-law and friends were being backed by the Highland and Island Society to voyage to Sydney Town and so begin a new life there or in the country beyond it. This society was made up of clan chiefs, including Lord Macdonald, and other concerned men, who paid the passage for selected people to leave their families and start afresh. The emigrants being asked to pay this back after settlement.